A Rhino’s View of Africa

After having a passion for rhinos for more than 30 years, in around 2007, I started thinking about travelling to Africa to see rhinos in the wild. There were a few obstacles – my kids, work, lack of money, and the biggest one = being petrified to go to such a “dangerous” place on my own!!
Many unsuccessful attempts to find someone to come with me eventually convinced me to bite the bullet and go on my own, just making sure that everything was 100% organised and leaving nothing to chance except my own potential stupidity.
My objective was, strangely enough, to maximise seeing rhinos, especially black rhinos. My first trip was in August 2008 – almost six weeks, six African countries, and amazing animal experiences, including rhinos! When I sat down in my seat on the plane to come home, I made the decision that I would come back every year, as long as I could possibly manage it financially and physically.
On my second trip, in July 2009, I found out that there were easier, more efficient ways of travelling to/from Sabi Sands/Kruger, to/from Johannesburg and between lodges in South Africa. Through Rhino Walking Safaris in Kruger, I had discovered Hartley’s Safaris, and have since completed 10 incredible African trips with them, two each year from 2010 to 2014, adding another two African countries to the list.
Although it is a long way from Australia to South Africa, the Hartley’s personnel and their extensive experience ensure there are absolutely no “gotchas”, and no planning gaps. They make planning, organising and even paying for trips totally effortless, and I would not dream of going to Africa without involving Hartley’s! We are currently in the planning throes for August 2015.
On most trips, I try a few new lodges and go back to some of my favourites. Returning to my “special” lodges means catching up with old friends, not just the staff, but also the animals that frequent those areas. When I observe particular leopards, cheetahs or prides of lions out on drive, it creates much more of a personal interaction when I have seen them on previous visits. It really feels like visiting old friends!

Rita Shaw
Sydney, Australia

In recent months all eyes have been focusing (and rightfully so) in the direction of Rhino poaching and the effects thereof in Africa. Now a subject close to millions of hearts around the world, our fight to protect this magnificent species is ongoing –every birth of baby rhino a celebration and every loss brings with it a dark blanket of grief.

As conservationists, there are many facets of the natural world that have become our passion our war, our life-long searches for answers that spill over into the next generation after us and in doing so we continue to hope for relief from the devastation and havoc that man has wreaked on planet Earth.

At Hartley’s Safari’s we have a passion for Africa and East Africa is high on our priority list. Our guests are treated to myriads of natural landscapes and wild scenery as well as several of the most majestic and fascinating animals on earth. This makes East Africa a mecca for nature lovers. Many of the visitors coming to the region do so for the opportunity to enjoy a safari and to experience up close and personal interactions with those animals that have us infinitely fascinated –lions, leopards, wild dogs, rhino, elephant , to name but a few.

Tanzania, Mozambique and Kenya boast a rich biodiversity of ecosystems and natural resources which is quite strange considering the level of poverty in these destinations. Unfortunately this same poverty has resulted in illegal and unsustainable trade with other countries and valuable natural resources are being lost to other countries-Europe, Asia and China. This illegal trade has proven extremely difficult to control due to insufficient resources. In turn, the poor communities of these coastal destinations suffer the most when these resources are destroyed. Global climate change in these countries is indicated by periods of persistent drought, unpredictable rainfall and drastic weather conditions.

For those passionate about fishing, you will be able to empathise with the severe threat of unsustainable fishing practices in the aforementioned countries. The interest of overfishing, is to eradicate hunger issues in developing countries all over the world, as well as to create a vast improvement of job opportunities, however due to our unsustainable fishing practices, it is just a matter of time before our oceans are completely depleted of marine species, and the destruction of the aquatic ecosystem. This issue will result in irreparable socio-economic and environmental circumstances that will be of severe consequence if we do not alter our local and international commercial fishing operations.

According to foreign media reports, Tanzania’s greatest threat at the moment, is the proposed road bisecting Serengeti National Park, which scientists, conservationists, the UN, and foreign governments alike have condemned. Home to the world’s largest migration of land animals—two million wildebeest, antelope, and zebra migrate annually across this vast grassland—many view the Serengeti plains as one of the most astounding wildlife areas on Earth, and it is certainly among the most famous. Other concerns include the fast-tracking of soda ash mining in the world’s most important breeding ground for lesser flamingos, and the recent announcement to nullify an application for UNESCO World Heritage Status for a portion of Tanzania’s Eastern Arc Mountains, a threatened tropical forest area rich in species found no-where else. According to President Jakaya Kikwete, Tanzania is simply trying to provide for its poorest citizens (such as communities near the Serengeti and the Eastern Arc Mountains) while pursuing western-style industrial development.

Obviously, Kikwete’s job is not straightforward. High expectations have to be balanced with on-the-ground realities, rising commodity prices and energy shortages. Infrastructure is left badly wanting within impoverished communities. Tanzania, like many East African nations, has faced terrible droughts in the past few years that have had devastating effects on its agriculture sector. The AIDS crisis is ongoing and Tanzania struggles to provide education to all its citizens. Kikwete is facing a rash of poaching and serious management issues within conservation areas.

WWF is calling for a more integrated policy approach to ensure that land and water intensive investments are more sustainable and benefit the host country. The good news is that like WWF, there are many organisations that are working towards solutions by providing funding to organizations like Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) to assist in the anti-poaching operations, by working directly with local communities to form areas of protection for natural resources and conservancies where wildlife is closely monitored and protected.

Projects such as building rainwater tanks whereby the communities can have access to rainwater, as opposed to using methods of deforestation in order to try and reach water within the forested areas.

In the Masai -Mara, eight wildlife conservancies have been formed, which offer land lease payments of US$25-40 per hectare (ha) per year to landowners (Bedelian, 2012). These schemes, financed by ecotourism operators, aim to keep land open for wildlife and provide landowners with a regular income stream. They now cover over 90,000 ha, securing vital migratory corridors and dispersal areas for wildebeest from both the Serengeti and the Loita Plains.

By taking into account wildlife and their migratory routes, people, livestock, landscapes and natural resources, a more comprehensive conservation effort can be made. Extensive communication and discussions with communities and landowners, governments, and conservation organisations is essential before any action can be taken.

Greenpeace is working on solutions with regards to overfishing that would entail a network of well enforced marine reserves across the region and sustainable fishing and fish processing operations managed and financed by Africans, providing livelihoods, food security and enabling poverty alleviation in the region. Africa’s waters need to be managed by well -funded, functioning regional oceans management organisations.

In a nutshell,although our business at Hartley’s is Safaris,conservation of our destinations is close to our hearts. Knowledge is power ,and with this in mind, we share with you a brief look into the conservation concerns and proposed solutions of these jewels of our continent that make up our majestic Coastal East Africa!

Experience the only Game Viewing and Tiger Fishing Houseboats in South Africa on one of its largest dams, Lake Jozini. Situated on the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast, 3.5 hrs drive from King Shaka International Airport. On-board the Shayamanzi Houseboats you will experience a unique combination of luxurious and wonderfully staffed accommodation, whilst enjoying the calm serenity of the open Lake Jozini waters.

Enjoy soaking up the stunning scenery of the Lebombo Mountains and superb wildlife of the Pongola Game Reserve on the shores of the lake, plus the exceptional and safe Game Viewing in the heart of the Zululand bushveld with the chance to participate in the thrill of Tiger Fishing.

On board the Shayamanzi houseboat there are 6 luxury cabins, each sleeping 2 passengers, which are en-suite with shower, basin and toilet. The cabins are large and airy with large sliding window doors as your boundary to the water. There are another 4 comfortable en-suite pontoon cabins on the lowest deck with port sized viewing windows. These cabins have a double bed and a small sitting area, which is convertible for additional bedding for young children.

A Shayamanzi Houseboats cruise begins from the spectacular Jozini Tiger Lodge which is situated along the banks of the picturesque Jozini dam near Pongola. Situated in the heart of the ‘Kingdom of the Zulu’ with its rich heritage and untamed natural beauty, Lake Jozini is an exciting holiday destination offers a perfect luxury getaway in the heart of nature.

Typical Routes
Day 1: Tiger Lodge to Hippo Bay.
Day 2: Hippo Bay to Nkwazi Bay.
Day 3: Nkwazi Bay to Tiger Lodge.

The Game Reserves surrounding Lake Jozini host many animal species which can be seen in herds from Shayamanzi’s decks: White and Black Rhino, Elephant, Buffalo, Hippo, Crocodile, Wildebeest, Giraffe, Zebra, Kudu, Nyala, Bushbuck, Mountain Reedbuck, Common Reedbuck, Red Duiker, Grey Duiker, Waterbuck, Steenbuck, Suni Antelope, Black Backed Jackal, Hyena, Cheetah, Wild Dog, Cerval Cat, Warthog, Bushpig, Banded Mongoose, Legavaan, Terrapin and the occasional sighting of Leopard which roam the slopes of the Lebombo Mountain Range. The muddy plains and reed banks provide excellent breeding grounds for the waterbirds which can be seen in thousands – Whistling Duck, Yellowbilled Storks, Spurwing and Egyptian Geese, Commorants, various Herons, Kingfishers, and several Fish Eagles.

Along the entire Western bank is the magnificent Lebombo Mountain Range. One of the evening anchorages may be a night in the Gorge. Here the Mountains rise either side of you, covered in indigenous cycads and ferns and where the glo-flies make a spectacular show along the shoreline.

Other overnight anchorages are in the River and at Mosquito Bay; both great fishing areas and very well positioned for game viewing.

As we crossed the ‘Great Nothing’, feeling small and insignificant in contrast to this vast, hauntingly beautiful, big and ancient, now dry sea in the Kalahari, moments of doubt crept in…. we were truly alone, having seen no other vehicles for over a day now, we might even be lost.

I remembered the words of the lodge staff telling me that driving through the Pans was always a risk. With no marked tracks or visual references the Makgadikgadi also had a deceiving tendency to suck vehicles into the sludge just below its cracked, dry surface, but was there any other way to truly experience this huge, empty, stillness except to become part of it.

After 3 nights of camping between an endless white, silent, spacious and empty earth and the blanket of a thousand brilliant stars covering it, even being lost had started to feel more like being found, and so with only the bare necessities and a continuous 360 degree view around ourselves we continued onwards in the general direction of our oasis; Jack’s Camp.

As desert gradually gave way to golden grasses, a mirage of mokolwane palm trees unbelievingly rose before us just on the lip of the Pans. Nestled within, a refreshingly authentic and sophisticated, old world safari style camp with unobstructed views across the expanse of ‘Great Nothing’.

Jack’s Camp not only offers stylish comfort amid antique chests and rugs, a unique national museum, a library and pool with a view in an impossibly remote location, but facilitates the most unusual exploration and experience of its surrounding Kalahari wilderness.

Nearby, the breath taking Chapman’s Baobab; the third largest tree in Africa.

Game drives take you in search of rare and elusive desert animal species.

During the dry season, quad bike into magnificent sunsets which stretch across the lunar expanse.

Experience epic horseback safaris through the unspoilt white encrusted salt pans.

Sleep out amongst giant boulders, under ancient baobabs and a horizon to horizon full of stars displayed.

The Serengeti of the south; during the wet season the Makgadikgadi is home to Southern Africa’s last surviving migration, and the cat species who follow it.

One of the most unexpected delights, was the up close and personal meerkat encounter.

A short drive from the camp we stepped out of the vehicle with our guide and strolled across to a clan of constantly chirping, rummaging wild meerkats who hardly seemed bothered by our presence. After having taken my hat off and settling down quietly in the grass to watch them I suddenly became very attractive as the highest lookout point!

Perhaps the greatest honour and revelation though was sparked by meeting Cobra, one of the ‘salt Bushmen’ and famous tracker and friend of Jack Bousfield.

I had heard rumours about his age and stories tell of him crawling into an abandoned aardvark hole and emerging covered in writhing, freshly hatched pythons.

His well-lined face tells of an ancient link to the Makgadikgadi and in his presence we became witness for just a few hours to an ancient way of life and a respected connection to the essence and wisdom of the earth.

Accompanied too by a family of San Bushmen in their simple adornments, we walked through the Pans. We listened to their festive clickering chatter fill the cold morning air as they playfully joked amongst themselves and invited us into the mystery of their culture.

Cobra’s skill in catching snakes is legendary but we were called to another mesmerising practice of his. As we watched aghast he quick as lightening dug up a scorpion and ceremoniously put it in his mouth ! I think I let out a little scream but he wasn’t eating it; as a service to the creature instead he was cleaning it’s 8 eyes with his saliva before releasing it back into its hole unharmed!

We tasted roots and berries and identified animal prints, dug up water plants for a drink and dug them respectfully back in so they could continue to grow. We watched them make fire and were drawn into their very real enjoyment and animated playing of a game similar to rock, paper, scissors. They share all possessions and come together in the evenings to enjoy the “Holy” fire and hypnotically dance to call to spirits and ancestors beyond.

In Wayne Visser’s words :

“We call you Hunter, Bushmen, San

You sowed the seed of primal Man

A gentler race we have not known

See how your legacy has grown…

You chose the way of archer’s bow

Of hunter’s grace-the art of flow:

to give and take and see the whole

To honour life and feed the soul.”

With all the recent reports in the local and international press & TV media about the severe drought situation in the Horn of Africa, we are aware that this must be causing some concern to travellers intending to travel to East Africa, and throwing some doubt on whether or not this will affect their safari.

We wish to clarify that the drought ravaging parts of the country is very much localised and there are several regions within East Africa that have received adequate rainfall and expect a normal harvest.

We wish to re assure guests intending to embark on a safari during this time, that neither themselves nor their safari will be affected or compromised by the drought. The key areas where most tourism activity takes place have not been affected by the drought and there is fantastic game viewing in the Parks, Reserves and Conservancies. For instance there has been a phenomenal migration this year.

There are a large number of East Africans who depend on tourism, directly and or indirectly, as a means of livelihood. This includes communities living around Parks and Reserves and those who operate community owned conservancies as an alternative to pastoralism and it is therefore important for us to continue as usual.

H.E. Mwai Kibaki the Kenyan President declared the drought a National disaster. Efforts have been stepped up to provide relief supplies to those affected by the drought, and reports are coming in now that aid is finally reaching the ravaged areas.

Seven species of marine turtles exist in the world’s oceans, therefore turtles are important indicators of ocean health. There are five species found off the Kwa-Zulu Natal Coast, namely, the loggerhead, leatherback, hawksbill, green and Olive Ridley turtles. Of these five species that occur in South African waters, only the loggerhead and leatherback females nest along the shores. However, in February 2014, a green turtle was found nesting on the beaches of KZN’s Isimangaliso Wetland Park – about 700 km from Europa Island in the Southern Mozambique Channel where they normally nest.

Both loggerhead and leatherback turtles nest during the summer months at night (October – March). Steep beach makes it easy for loggerheads to swim through the surf over low lying rock ledges. The females emerge from the surf and rest in the wash zone on the beach. Here they assess the beach for any danger by lifting their heads and scanning the beach. Satisfied that there is no danger they then proceed up the beach to well above the high water mark.

Having found a suitable site, the female commences by excavating a body pit, this enables her to lie with the top of her carapace level with the beach. She then digs an egg cavity with her hind flippers. The egg pit is a flask shaped hole about 50-80 centimetres deep. A normal clutch constitutes 100-120 soft white shelled eggs which are deposited into this hole. When all of the eggs have been laid the female fills the hole with sand and begins to knead and press the surface until the sand is tightly packed. Once she is finished she disguises the nest site by throwing sand with her fore-flippers over the nesting area. Leatherbacks can return up to seven times in one season to lay eggs.

After incubating for 60 to 70 days, the baby turtles break out of their eggs and immediately head for the relative safety of the sea.

In 1963, the Natal Parks Board (now Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife) began monitoring these fascinating creatures’ nesting habits. It had the explicit aim of protecting sea turtles while ashore and at the same time collecting data on morphometrics, site preferences and population status. Even though interactions by the local communities with turtles were relatively few, “bad habits” crept in and turtle numbers dwindled. The first conservation measures were introduced in 1916 but with little effect, such that in the first year of monitoring only six leatherback nests were counted in the index area. Now after five decades of dedicated conservation and nest protection, turtle numbers have increased to about 60 leatherback nests and between 2500 and 3000 loggerhead nests per season in the area north of Bhanga Nek.

668 in 2012, 1004 in 2013, and 1215 in 2014: these are the staggering numbers of rhino that have been poached in the last three years, and 2015 is on track for another record year. With corruption and ignorance working hand in hand, this is a war that seemingly has no end in sight. But that does not mean battles are not being won every day by the dedicated men and women fighting tirelessly for these magnificent animals. Saving the Survivors is one such organisation committed to rescuing and medically treating injured rhino and endangered species, and they recently brought us all Hope, the four year old white rhino who survived one of the most brutal poaching attacks.

Hope was darted by poachers who then proceeded to hack off an area of her face measuring 50 by 28 centimetres to ensure that they got all of her horn before leaving her to die. Although narrowly missing her eyes, the wound did expose her sinus cavities and nasal passage, and it was a miracle that she was found alive days later. The team of veterinarians, headed up by Dr Johan Marais and Dr Gerhard Steenkamp, had to work quickly to clean and dress the injury with a calcium nitrate material that both stimulates granulation tissue and has antibacterial properties. This specialised material was designed to be used for humans and has now had to be specifically imported for rhinos. At the end of a procedure that lasted more than three hours, a fibreglass shield was attached to what little bone was left using screws and wire stitches.

Blood samples are also taken as certain enzymes will be present should there be infection or muscle damage that may be life threatening. Even just the weight of a rhino lying down for an extended period of time can cause irreversible damage that needs to be monitored. It is expected that Hope will have to undergo more than 20 medical procedures before the wound is fully healed which will cost tens of thousands of dollars. But the knowledge gained is invaluable as these incredible veterinarians work with Hope on her road to recovery, and so light the path for others who suffer a similar atrocity in future.

Hope is the tenth rhino to have this type of procedure and many will remember the first, Thandiswa, who was poached with her son Themba in 2012. Themba devastatingly passed away shortly after the attack due to an infected leg injury, but Thandi went on to recover well and gave birth to a beautiful calf, Thembi, in January 2015. We yearn for the day that we will be able to rejoice in a similar happy ending for Hope.

“Through the work that Saving the Survivors does, this rhino, Hope, is giving victims of poaching a voice which cries out to the world for our help. She is becoming a living symbol of this poaching crisis, and an inspirational example of the fight for survival against seemingly insurmountable odds. Her struggle to claim back her life and her dignity must become our fight to change human behaviour and restore value and respect and care for all living things.” – Dr Will Fowlds

Burning torches at the camp's entrance lure safari-goers into this oasis of luxury and impeccable hospitality.

14 luxury suites lie along the camp's perimeter and are designed to allow absolute privacy and a communion with the bush and its inhabitants. Watch elephants splashing at the waterhole, listen to the lyrical melody of the woodlands kingfisher on a branch overhead, smell the grassy scent of the bushveld. The air here is so pure and invigorating you won't want to leave. Ever.

The insect-proofed luxury suites, each boast a full en-suite bathroom. Sliding doors open onto the African bush, two large beds and a day bed for a child is available. A magnificent stunning viewing deck directly off the safari bar is a highlight of this camp, together with an elevated lounge overlooking the waterhole. A swimming pool and camp discovery research Centre complete the camp.

Children of all ages welcome!

Not to be outdone, the Mashatu Tented is a very different refuge. For the ultimate in one- on -one intimate bush experiences, look no further than this! Eight twin tents, each with private en-suite facilities. Each Concrete platform-mounted tent is tucked under the branches of enormous trees, and is accessible via meandering pathways.

The tents themselves are spacious and comfortable has its own private outdoor en-suite facilities, including W.C. and shower - a room with a real view! Meal times are enjoyed either in the open-air thatched gazebo or in the boma (enclosure) overlooking the floodlit, well-populated waterhole. The camp's plunge pool invites guests to cool off and escape the relentless heat typical of the summer months. The shaded hide also overlooks the waterhole, and here bush enthusiasts can sit quietly and witness animals going about their day, completely unaware that they are being watched.

The bush is a humble place….

(Available for children over the age of 12 years).

Misool Eco Resort is a remote dive resort and conservation centre located in the Southern region of Raja Ampat, West Papua. This magnificent resort is surrounded by an archipelago of uninhabited islands and located in the heart of one of the richest, bio-diverse dive regions in the world. For those divers who prefer a land based vacation as opposed to livaboard, Misool Eco Resort’s location makes it ideal for diving while at the same time providing guests with blissfully secluded accommodation, making it the ultimate tropical getaway destination for dive enthusiasts and holiday makers alike.

The rustic water cottages are positioned on stilts above the lapping waters, overlooking the shallow turquoise lagoon. Stairs leading from the balcony allow guests to enjoy the temperate waters right from their doorstep, while hammocks set the scene for maximum relaxation. With the House Reef just a few splashes away guests can enjoy the dazzling variety of marine life without having to leave the resort or travel far. However, for guests who would like a change of scenery, boats from the resort leave daily allowing guests to travel and experience the wealth of diverse dive sites that Raja Ampat has to offer.